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In Case You Missed It: LATEST
NEWS FROM The Post and Courier
-The South's Oldest Newspaper
Posted on
Sunday, July 6, 2003
Articles about The Hunley, The Monitor and several ships and
their conservation plans |
BY BO PETERSEN AND RON MENCHACA
Of The Post and Courier Staff
NEWPORT NEWS, VA.--About 140 years after the Civil War, the
Confederate relic H.L. Hunley and the Union icon USS
Monitor are
taking aim at the same target: the tourist.
A museum is in the works for each, the kind of multimillion-dollar
virtual reality facility that appeals to today's switch-on-the-screen, pop-on-the-headphones and entertain-me audience.
The two formidable vessels face an equally daunting task: luring a
time-strapped, increasingly discerning public. Neither can be sure
of
a hit. For the Hunley, it's a longer shot.
As Hunley organizers wrestle with where to build a $40
million
waterfront museum, a $30 million campaign is under way in Newport
News to add a wing to the Mariners' Museum to preserve and
display
the turret and other artifacts of the Monitor.
The Mariners' Museum is a treasure-trove of an exhibit hall
set amid
550 hardwood acres and a lake on the shore of the James River. It is
one of two national maritime museums designated by Congress.
Yet its officials fret over what they consider weak attendance. A
healthy endowment allows them to operate without counting too much
on
the turnstile.
The Mariners' Museum has a world-class site, and widespread
individual, local, state and federal support and money. Charleston
doesn't have a Mariners' Museum.
Hunley boosters could use a broader support base, public
money and
grants to build and operate a freestanding attraction. They are
intent on a waterfront site and are hoping to draw on tourist
dollars
already flowing into town.
Visitors still take weekend tours at the lab where the submarine is
kept, but tours no longer sell out.
'SENSE OF AWE'
The Monitor may be the most recognizable artifact of
the Civil War
because of its famous 1862 duel with the Merrimack, the original
Battle of the Ironclads.
The Monitor was a pioneer in its time. Its museum wing
is being
designed to ride the new wave in exhibiting, where the magic word
is "interactive" and staying relevant means functioning less like
glass-case galleries and more like amusement parks.
In the post-Epcot vacation world, visitors want to climb aboard and
hold on. They want to sweat inside the steamy turret and crank
shoulder to shoulder with the submarine's crewmen.
"You need to give people a feel, a sense of the smell, the heat or
cold, a sense of what it was like to be in that place," said Jim
Gardner, associate director of the Smithsonian Institution's
National
Museum of American History.
Mariners' Museum officials say that's what they're about to do.
Later
this year, they will unveil plans for a Monitor Center
that will give
visitors a sense of walking aboard the boat's flat iron sheathing as
they set foot in the door.
The museum plans a host of hands-on exhibits such as a computer game
that allows the visitor to try to hoist the 135-ton turret up from
the Atlantic Ocean bottom through cross-shifting Labrador and Gulf
Stream currents onboard a rocking boat, the way it was in 2002.
The Monitor's turret now stands on its head in a huge
open tank in
the museum's back yard, on display during museum hours. Other
artifacts lie in smaller tanks bought from a trash container company
and in garagelike labs nearby. Visitors can step right up to the
turret's outdoor tank, so close they feel mist from the sprayers
keeping the iron from corroding, and talk to conservators at work.
"You can get within a few inches of the guns," said John Broadwater,
manager of the Monitor National Marine Sanctuary, the
underwater
refuge where the rest of the ironclad still lies.
Working in the 9-foot-tall Monitor turret, conservator
T.R. Randolph
Jr. wedges past its two mammoth Dahlgren cannons and weaves his way
around the packed interior of the encrusted iron cylinder.
"Every time you go in, there's the sense of awe," he said. He
doesn't
think he should be the only one to get in. "Becoming intimate with
it
is the only way you get a sense of scope. There were 21 people in
this immediate vicinity."
When restored and in the museum wing, the turret will be open to
visitors. They'll be able to get up against the cannons and get a
sense of the stifling confines where shirtless gunners sweated in
the
gunpowder haze.
For the turret to be restored, its wrapped iron layers must be
peeled
like onion skins. There's talk at the museum of putting the outer
skin on walk-through display as soon as it's ready, while the rest
gets worked.
The museum doesn't charge any more to see the Monitor
turret than its
regular admission price of $7 for adults. The museum rotates
displays
from 35,000 other artifacts, including exotica such as 89 ships'
figureheads that adorn the walls; a lavish black and gold, 19th-century Venetian gondola; pieces of the HMS Bounty,
the famous mutiny
ship; and a world-renowned miniature ship collection.
Among other exhibits is a shed where classic Chesapeake Bay fishing
boats are built by hand. The museum's archives include nearly 2
million documents such as letters from a Union sailor who served on
the Monitor and mailed them home with his laundry.
Its Noland Park includes a five-mile walking trail through the
hardwood glens around a 167-acre lake, with 14 bridges, picnic
tables
and fishing piers open to the public free of charge.
The park and the museum were the bequest of a Newport News
shipbuilding family whose $1 million endowment in 1930 has grown to
$85 million. That money helps pay for the museum's $10 million
annual
operating budget.
The museum draws 100,000 visitors per year, "not what we would
like,"
said John Hightower, its president. Officials project 250,000 per
year when the Monitor exhibit opens.
The vessel "is an object so powerful it will define the
institution,"
Hightower said.
But the institution doesn't have the entire Monitor.
The ship's distinctive revolving turret, or gun housing, is in one
piece.
The rest of what was recovered is in hundreds of pieces as disparate
in size as boilers and thermometers. Its hull still lies 240 feet
down in the Atlantic off the North Carolina coast.
The Hunley effort doesn't have an institution such as
the Mariners'
Museum behind it. Still, it has a few distinct advantages.
For one, the submarine is largely intact, scooped in one piece from
the sands off Sullivan's Island. It turned out to be an engineering
marvel ahead of its time. Then there's its dramatic tale, a romantic
mystery people swoon over, including a pocked coin the
Hunley's captain carried to his death because it had stopped a bullet and
saved his life. His sweetheart gave it to him.
"You've got the gold coin. You've got the men still at their posts
after 100 years. It's the people inside the story who make it so
compelling. It's captured the public's imagination much more than I
would have expected," said Broadwater of the Monitor National
Marine
Sanctuary.

'SILENTLY SPEAKS'
Hunley organizers must bank on keeping that
captivation.
The Hunley wasn't well-known outside the region before its notoriety
as the first submarine to sink an enemy ship was promoted heavily to
support its recovery three years ago.
Now it draws international interest, cradled in a sling in a slick
conservation lab on the former Charleston Naval Base, an operation
that is the envy of other conservators.
The lab was paid for partly with $2.9 million in state and federal
money and with contributions and equipment donations totaling about
$1 million. Friends of the Hunley is a membership support group with
limited funds.
Questions about the museum routinely are directed to one man, state
Sen. Glenn McConnell, who has driven the project from the beginning.
He talks about developing a "quasi-public private partnership."
He and other organizers are looking to build a freestanding museum
in
one of three locations away from the conservatory. McConnell
stresses
the need for waterfront exposure, talks about ferrying visitors back
and forth, possibly in a Disneylike replica of the USS
Housatonic,
the warship the Hunley sunk.
At the conservatory, almost as popular as the ghostly hulk of the
boat itself is a mock-up built for the Turner Network Television
movie "The Hunley," where visitors can scrunch their
way inside, sit
at the bench and turn the propeller crank.
The Confederate "fishboat" doesn't have the reams of historic
archives that accompany the Monitor. What it has is
the secrecy of
its development, the mystery of how it sank, the spellbinding coin.
"The mystique of the Hunley is such that it silently
speaks to
visitors," McConnell said. "We know so little about it, and it's the
mystery that attracts people."
Organizers hope the stories uncovered by study of the submarine and
human remains continue to captivate the public.
"We've got the brains of every crewman. It defies people's
imaginations when you tell them that. We've got the shoes intact,"
McConnell said.
Much of the appeal of the Hunley Museum, though, will be in
interactive displays, he said.
"We're not going to build a glass box, a sterile glass box," said
McConnell, who talks about using virtual reality, lasers and
forensics to evoke the Hunley down to the individual faces of the
crewmen. "We should be able to recreate the voyage like you're
sitting there and they're sitting around you."
What McConnell has in mind is something similar to what he
experienced at an exhibit of artifacts from the doomed ocean liner
Titanic. He wrapped his fingers around a replica
steering wheel and
worked facsimile controls. Through the wonders of computer
simulation, he peered over the liner's bow, approached the iceberg
that mauled it and tried to avoid the collision.
His ticket to the exhibit, a reproduction of a Titanic boarding
pass,
assigned him the name of an actual passenger. Not until the end did
he find out whether "he" survived.
While the Hunley Museum could be chock full of mock-ups and virtual
reality, the sub's final resting place might never be truly
hands-on.
The goal is to exhibit it in dry air, with visitors maybe close
enough to peek inside. But McConnell doesn't think they will be
allowed to climb aboard. How close the public would get to the
submarine depends on how well it can be protected, he said.
At the conservatory now, the Hunley sits well below the viewing
platform. Entering the vast, sterile warehouse and seeing the
submarine in its coffin like tank, one gets the sense of it lying in
state.
The conservatory was designed to assure preservation and to handle
human remains, McConnell said. Public tours were almost an
afterthought, triggered by the huge response to a single viewing
offered shortly after the boat's recovery.
McConnell also is counting on the appeal of the $3 million Peery
collection, not yet available to the public, bought by the state for
the state Hunley Commission. The Civil War maritime collection
includes Union and Confederate pieces ranging from swords, flags,
books, maps and models to 28 oil paintings and artifacts such naval
china.
He calls it the world's greatest 19th century Southern maritime
collection.
McConnell is confident the museum can draw people over the long
haul.
"In a warehouse on a closed Navy base, only open a day and a half
each week, the Hunley has proven she is a sought-after attraction,"
he wrote in The Post and Courier in January in response to
criticisms
of the museum's projected cost.
Yet attendance is dropping at the improvised weekend tours now
offered for $10.
The conservatory can accommodate 40 people per tour, 1,260 per
weekend. It's drawn more than 100,000 since it opened for tours in
2000. But in 2002, the first year it was open for tours
consistently,
it drew 46,000, about two-thirds the capacity. Through June 22 this
year, it had drawn 18,000.
Interactive displays are time-consuming, limiting the number of
visitors the site can accommodate.
The American History Museum is the third-most visited museum in the
country, drawing as many as 6 million people per year. That's too
many to move through many interactive displays, said Gardner, the
associate director.
"When you're talking about huge numbers of people, getting through
an 'immersive' experience is really quite difficult. I don't think
that the Hunley experience would be accessible to
them," he said.
'THE BOON'
Before the first tourist steps into a Hunley Museum,
the project must
find a site, partners and lots of money.
The $30 million campaign to build the Monitor Center wing seeks one-third in federal money; one-third in state and local money; and one-third in corporate, foundation and individual grants and
contributions. About one-third of the total has been raised, mostly
in federal and state money. Architects are at work.
The $40 million that Hunley organizers expect it will cost to build
their showcase museum is a rough estimate based on presentations
made
with bids by three cities -- Charleston, Mount Pleasant and North
Charleston. There are no plans; organizers aren't that far yet.
The bids ranged from $5 million to $11 million. McConnell rejected
them, and said later none of the presentations provided enough of a
public-partner commitment for Hunley organizers to be able to seek
grants and federal money.
Mount Pleasant rescinded its first bid to build the museum at the
popular Patriot's Point warship tourist attraction, and the town
committed money it set aside for the Hunley to another project.
Charleston, after offering to build the museum at the popular S.C.
Aquarium complex tourist area, is now suggesting building at the
more
traditional Charleston Museum, away from the waterfront.
McConnell says he won't settle for anything less than a world-class
museum, and he doesn't doubt the fishboat can draw enough tourists.
"The municipalities wouldn't be offering all the money they're
offering unless they knew the boon it's going to be," he said.
The Hunley's Confederate heritage stops more than a
few people and
might make finding support more difficult out of region than it was
for the Monitor. Organizers of other
Confederacy-oriented museums
don't think that will limit its popularity.
"For the public as a whole, I don't think it ever makes a
difference,
especially when you're talking about technological innovation," said
Virginia War Museum Director John V. Quarstein, who has had a hand
in
creating some 14 regional museums.
"In the long run they pay for themselves. Will the visitors come
immediately? You never know."
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Ill-fated gunboat decaying in N.C. shed
BY RON MENCHACA AND BO PETERSEN
Of The Post and Courier Staff
KINSTON, N.C.--The rotted timbers of its hull resemble the exposed
ribs of some devoured animal. When it comes to restoring historic
boats, the CSS Neuse is a cautionary tale.
Unlike high-profile projects in South Carolina and Virginia, the
40-year effort to preserve the ill-fated gunboat in a state historic
site is struggling for an audience.
In contrast to the well-funded public-private H.L. Hunley
and USS Monitor efforts, North Carolina has made
only halfhearted stabs at conserving the Neuse to draw
more tourists to a tiny old tobacco and mill town.
If the Neuse hadn't gone down in its prime, scuttled
by its own crew during a Union raid, admirers say the "gray
ghost" might today rival the popularity of the Hunley
or Monitor. The historic site now is getting visitors
who stop by after seeing the Hunley.
Much like its troubled years of service during the war, which were
marked by lack of funds and an unpredictable river, what's left of
the Neuse today sits decaying in an open-air shed, its
wood flaking away more each day.
"I think this site has been overlooked in a lot of ways," said
Andrew Duppstadt, assistant site manager at the Neuse historic site.
"This site has never really been a priority."
In contrast to the almost obsessive planning that went into the
Hunley's retrieval, the Neuse's hull was
plucked from a shallow area of the Neuse River in 1963.
But three local businessmen who organized the haphazard recovery
were not motivated by conserving the ironclad, one of 22
commissioned by the Confederate Navy. "They thought they were
going to find gold or some other valuable," Duppstadt said.
Eventually, the state of North Carolina became the ship's caretaker.
In 1999, Hurricane Floyd flooded the Neuse River and the river
bottomland shed that housed the boat. Although it was later moved to
a new shed on higher ground, conditions are still less than ideal. A
$3 million renovation to the park that will include some bolstering
of the boat's shed and supports is sorely needed, said Duppstadt,
who used to walk the hull before it sounded like "corn flakes." Each
morning he picks up the pieces that have fallen off overnight. |
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Wreckage of ironclad
Merrimack becomes stuff of legend
BY BO PETERSEN AND RON MENCHACA
Of The Post and Courier Staff
NEWPORT NEWS, Va.--News that a recent underwater survey might have
found remnants of the ironclad Merrimack touched off fervor among
Civil War buffs already stirred up by the recoveries of two other
legendary warships, the Monitor and the Hunley.
A follow-up survey is planned, but the myth of the wreck might be
all that's there. After more than a century of burning, exploding,
salvaging, scavenging and souvenir hunting, there's not likely to be
much more.
The survey, performed by a shipping company looking to extend its
piers, turned up the latest report in a century's worth that a
boiler
from one of the more famous naval battlers in history might be in
the
Chesapeake Bay near Norfolk.
But the ironclad's boilers were square, and the one the survey found
is round. The round one has been "discovered" before, said John
Broadwater, manager of the federal Monitor National Marine
Sanctuary. "We've heard about the so-called Virginia boiler for
years. It's a local legend."
The Merrimack, or the CSS Virginia, fought the USS Monitor to a
Civil
War draw in what is considered the baptism of iron warships. The
H.L.
Hunley is considered the first submarine to sink an enemy ship, off
Charleston Harbor in 1862.
The Virginia was built from the scavenged Merrimack, a Union
warship.
But nobody called it the Virginia, one historian notes. In 1862, it
ran aground off Craney Island, and the Confederates burned it rather
than lose it to the Union.
When the flames reached the black powder magazine, the ship blew up.
After the war, salvage companies removed two boilers and parts of
the
hull. To clear the shipping channel, they took what was left of the
ship and blew it up again. Its larger shanks were dragged off to a
nearby shipyard.
Then collectors started picking at the remnants, and mistakenly at
the remnants of any other shipwreck around it. The joke around
Hampton Roads is that if you took all the iron and all the wood
supposedly collected from the Merrimack, you'd have enough to outfit
a fleet of ironclads.
Watermen in the clam-rich area used to use clam tongs to nip away at
the USS Cumberland, in shallow water near the Merrimack wreck. The
Cumberland was the first Union sloop to be sunk by the Virginia.
"Trinkets were made. Coins were made. There have been stories that
people have chunks of metal and claim it's from the Virginia," said
Justin Lyons, spokesman of the Mariners' Museum, where the Monitor's
turret is being conserved and displayed.
It seems everybody in Hampton Roads has a piece of what they think
is
the Merrimack.
John Hightower, the museum's president, sheepishly pulls out his own
souvenir for a visitor. It's a pencil-sized shaft of wood on which
someone has written "piece of Merrimack." He got it from a neighbor
who had it lying around. It apparently was part of a ship's
plumbing.
There are big artifacts of the Merrimack around. Its anchor and
shaft
are at the Museum of the Confederacy in Richmond. The Mariners'
Museum has a cannonball-dented armor plate thought to have come from
the ship.
Some experts say significant artifacts might still rest in the
bottom
muck.
Toss in the recoveries of the Monitor turret and an intact Hunley,
and it doesn't take much to stir the public's imagination.
Broadwater says there can't be much of the ship left underwater. But
even he can't quite let it go. He's a diver and in the shifting murk
near the Merrimack area he glimpsed scattered wreckage that he
thinks
might be promising. He, too, is going back for another look.
"I would love to find a recognizable piece of the Virginia."*****
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